Solo Backpacking Architecture Trip to Finland & Denmark

After the tender submission of a project at work, I took two weeks off work backpacking around Finland and Denmark in July. It was more or less an impulsive decision back in April, thinking it would be a good opportunity to refresh my mind and learn new things away from home. Scandinavian countries have always been on my bucket list (I was interested in them as early as I believed in Santa, but more after studying architecture). The discovery of timely, cheap return flight tickets to Helsinki via Tokyo helped convince me to go for it.

There’s never enough time to see everything places offer. Still, two weeks was enough to get a sense of cities and regions and visit numerous notable architectural projects. I understand travelling from one regional city to another every day or two isn’t for everyone, but it gave me a broader understanding of diverse local cultures and geographical characteristics within a short timeframe. Starting in Helsinki, I’ve visited Paimio, Turku, Tampere, Jyväskylä, Säynätsalo (and Muuratsalo), then Copenhagen, Ribe, Odense, and Helsingør via Copenhagen. 

“What was the highlight of the trip?” – good but very hard question

It is almost impossible to pick a favourite moment or place; so many happy moments, noticing beautiful copperworks, understanding the logic behind pavers, sitting on rocky outcrops in the middle of the city, and meeting Aussie architects who share a passion for architecture. But the most liberating and beautiful experience was a bike ride through the world heritage-listed Wadden Sea National Park during my journey to and from Wadden Sea Centre in Ribe. Riding through bike paths with no traffic, feeling breezes, hearing and seeing various birds, crickets and butterflies, smelling local plants of wetlands, and seeing bodies of water reflecting beautiful blue sky with clouds was a gorgeous experience that I won’t forget.

Afternoon ride through Ribe

Drawing as a means to understand a place

One of the purposes of the trip was to draw as many of the exciting places and things as possible. Letting myself spend a long time observing one place closely, being intentional with each line, and finding joy in understanding the architectural meanings behind designs was so satisfying and rewarding. For example, counting bricks and paying attention to brick patterns in Gruntdvig’s Church was all about trying to figure out why I was feeling what I was feeling—the otherworldly beauty, warmth, and tranquillity shaped by an uncountable quantity of cream-coloured bricks. Drawing the plan view of the brick columns and pavers helped me notice the consideration of proportion, meticulous control over brick composition and the zigzag patterns subdividing the faces of columns. The diagonal rhythm of 3+1+1+2+1+1+1 half-brick units (with 2 in the middle visually separating it into two sets) enables the alternating patterns of light and shadow to be articulated, inviting viewers to perceive the subtle changes in tonal variations of light. Despite the mass of structural elements, it ultimately shapes an optical effect of slenderness and elegance. The time of contemplation surrounded by the gentle echoes of the organ music in the church was so special.

Reading the Cityscape – Materiality

One thing I found so beautiful was the tactility of places. The compositions and varieties of stones, pavers, and bricks shaped the character of the ground, and the application of materials reflected the care of those with wheels (people in wheelchairs, pushing prams, and cyclists). The graceful aging of copper and timber added a sense of time inherent to places. At Muuratsalo Experimental House, the guide mentioned how Alvar Aalto enjoyed the shapes of bricks seen below the layers of lime plaster – the play with light and shadow always brought out the beauty of materials. The legibility of materiality made the seemingly mundane places so rich and welcoming.

I could spend hours talking about all the sketches I’ve done and pictures I took, and I wish I had enough time to share my excitement with everyone. I can’t do it with every single person, but at least here are some of my favourite sketches from the trip for you! Hope you enjoy.

(For anyone as nerdy as I am… lots of cute and sexy handrails, door handles and bike parks…!)

1 Comment

Leave a comment